Category Archives ⇒ 3D Printing

XTLW ‘Ultimaker’ clonish 3D Printer

· silver

2018 April NZ$361.26 landed

http://www.ti.com/product/FDC1004/samplebuy

  • Uses that really light 2020 same as Anycubic Delta
  • Assembly:
    • X Y carriage feels tight
    • Cantilevered bed not stiff enough
    • Motors drive directly onto X / Y rods so hard to dissamble

Immediate changes

  • Relocate motors to be loop belt drive to X Y Rods:
    • Need to replicate 1 each of the 2 pillow blocks used for X & Y axis respectively
      • Bearings are 688Z (Plain – ID 8mm OD 16mm Width 5mm) of which I have… none!
      • X Pillow block: Center of shaft axis is 10mm in from the 2 outside edges so we need a bearing with a small enough radius to leave enough plastic to hold the bearing in places so a 608zz is too large at 22mm, I do have MF148ZZ which is OD 14mm so we will use that and order some 688z for later if needed
      • Pillow blocks are 15mm wide, mount holes are 6mm in from inside edge (is important to get pulleys to line up)
      • Fusion 360 did 1 of each corner pillow block, for MF148ZZ bearings
        • Printed on Wanhao Duplicator 4S in ABS / Makerbot Desktop 3.10 / Fine / Infill 50% / Shells 4
        • Had to up bearing bore from 14mm to 14.4mm to allow possible slight overextrusion on this printer
        • Did 4.1mm mount holes rather than the original parts 3mm
        • Had to file down a couple of corners slightly due to ABS warp  
      • Then redid in PETG on Anycubic Delta Linear Plus as hadn’t tried PETG before, seems good with slow print speed (50%)
      • Then added Y Microswitch to X Pillow Block, and altered X Pillow block to make room for a new X Microswitch & bracket

 

xxx

Cura 3.x Slicer

· silver

For Anycubic Delta Linear Plus installed 3.2

  • STL Model loaded up interface gets sluggish and really unusable
  • Notice that it automatically slices after every change so:
    • Preferences -> Configure Cura ->
      • General
        • Disabled Slice Automatically
      • Disabled all under privacy setting while I am here
      • Quality
        • Enabled Initial Layer Height
        • Enabled Infill Pattern
  • Layer view is unusable, so sluggish not responsive at all so:
    • Preferences -> Configure Cura ->
      • Viewport Behaviour:
        • Enabled Force layer view compatibility mode + restart

201812131 Snapshot:

PLA Support settings to try:

https://www.instructables.com/id/Best-Support-Settings-for-3D-Printing/

Based on the previous results, I have decided to keep the following settings after few more tries:

  • Temperature: from 180C to 190C. Be careful, if the temperature is too low, the object will be more fragile because the layers will not stick well to each others.
  • Support interface ON
  • Interface thickness: 0.6mm
  • Distance from the support interface and the object: 0.2mm

D&D Miniatures AnyCubic Linear Plus

  • Draft Quality = 0.2mm layer height
  • Infill 50%
  • Printing Temperature 200 deg
  • Build plate 60 deg
  • Generate Support
    • Touching Build plate
    • Lines
    • Density 15
      • Support line distance (auto) = 2.667mm 
    • Support X distance 0.2mm
    • Enable support interface
      • Enable support roof Yes
      • Enable support floor Yes
    • Support interface thickness 0.6mm

AnyCubic Linear Plus Delta 3d Printer

· silver

20180507 Z Offset:

  • PLA 15.39
  • PETG 15.29 = good overall adhesion

 

20180417 Z Offset: 15.49mm

20180409 NZ$479.93

Box arrived in good shape.  Contents impressive & well packed

Construction notes:

  • Replaced the rectangular flat slot nuts with M4 Block nuts where possible
    • Estimate = 9 as did all 3 in each vertical to base joints
  • Extended cables for Z Endstop, and Auto levelling sensor, would’ve liked to extend Y Stepper cable slightly as well but is ok for now
  • A couple of cable clips on Extruder stepper cable
    • 2 x (5.4mm White Clip + M4 Hammer nut + M4 washer + M4 x 8mm Button head)
  • A couple of cable clips on cable from effector where goes into base
    • 2 x (10.?mm White Clip + M4 Hammer nut + M4 washer + M4 x 8mm Button head)
  • 6 feet underneath to improve airflow & sit better/quieter
    • 6 x (20mm rubber foot + M4 Hammer nut + M4 x 10mm button head)
  • Some cables are a bit short (*just* long enough) and some are way too long
  • Magnetic attachment for levelling probe ‘rocks’ as screw holding magnet into probe is not level with top of magnet:
    • Removed matching steel plate off effector and drilled out 6mm hollow in center to accomodate the top of the screw.
  • Instructions pretty good

To do:

  • External Mosfet for heat bed
  • Fan for steppers

Initial startup thoughts

  • Leveling process pretty straightforward
  • Loaded up Cura 3.2 and added this machine profile: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2367365
  • First print:
    • https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1535703
    • Printed in supplied black PLA
    • 0.2 / 20% / Adhesion = No / Support = No
    • Cura estimated 7h actual = 8.5
    • Result was excellent
    • Stuck very hard to anycubic build surface

Tevo Little Monster

· silver

AE 201804 NZ$846.20, whilst on Sale & NZ$ at US$0.73

Golden ratio layer heights:

  • 0.0809
  • 0.1618
  • 0.3236

20180520 Initial assembly observations / modifications:

  • Used longer M5 bolts for attaching C Beam to Top / Bottom plates
  • Bottom belt idler assemblies:
    • Replaced non-toothed bottom belt idlers with toothed (GT2x6mm, 20T, B5mm)
    • Use M5 T-Block nuts (drilled the brackets out to 5mm)  rather than the supplied M4 swivel/drop in nuts (since I had to remove the top plate again to fix the twisted belt per below anyway)
  • Carriages:
    • One carriage had a twist in the belt
    • No more gaps silicone as a poor mans locktite on carriage set screws (for optical end stops) after setting to near enough to 5mm
  • X Motor mount:
    • Ground off corner of bracket to as bracket corner was interfering with the PSU case
    • Moved bracket slightly to alllow room between motor & PSU case
  • Added washers where seemed sensible e.g. motor brackets
  • Loaded up all 3 x 4 outside C-Beam 6mm slots with 3 M5 T-Block nuts each (3 x 4 x 3 = 36 nuts)

 

Wanhao Duplicator 4 Makerbot Desktop Windows 10 64Bit

· silver

Old PC retired, time to run up the duplicator 4 on new PC

Was running ReplicatorG on old machine.  We will see if we can use later software.

Installing Makerbot Desktop 3.10 (Beta)

Note to self re Firmware Upgrade option:

Wanhao is a clone of ‘Makerbot Replicator Dual’.  The Makerbot Desktop software will tell you your firmware is v7.2 and will allow an upgrade attempt to 7.5.

This forum Post suggests you *can* sucessfuly update to 7.5 if the machine type is set to Replicator Dual, but also says *DON’T DO IT* Yes all in caps.  So we won’t.

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/wanhao-printer-3d/sjYp4XBoOvQ

Set as Replicator Dual, looking for good tradeoff between speed and quality, most parts are stressed so lookin for ABS with high % content for strenght

Replicator G:

  • 50% infill + 3 shells is good result

Makerbot Desktop

  • Low, Infill = 50%, 3 Shells is not too bad
  • Except: Smaller parts dimensionally slightly too large, will tweak Extruder settings:
    • Attempt 1: Settings -> Low -> Right Extruder: Change from 1.77 to 2.0mm = ABSOLUTLY NO CHANGE, same part printed at 1.77mm & 2.0mm is 7g
    • Attempt 1: Settings -> Low -> Right Extruder: Change from 1.77 to 2.25mm = ABSOLUTLY NO CHANGE, same part printed at 1.77mm & 2.25mm is 7g

 

ANET AM8 Notes

· silver

Assembly notes (both A8 & AM8)

  • Reverse cross brace on heat bed H frame as this flatterns the belt path
  • The extruder fan can is only fixed by the 2 M3x45 Cap Head Socket screws, so add 2 M3 screws through the fan guard and fan into the heatsink fins
  • The heat break needs to be firmly abutting the nozzle, so loosen the nozzle, and get the heat break in just far enough that the nozzle butts up against it and the block, takes a few goes to get it right

RRIG

2 x V-SLOT 2040 Aluminium Extrusion – Natural Anodized 340mm
3 x V-SLOT 2040 Aluminium Extrusion – Natural Anodized 313mm
2 x V-SLOT 2040 Aluminium Extrusion – Natural Anodized 440mm (PRE-TAPPED)

120 x Tee Nut

6 x Natural Anodized Double Corner brackets
4 x Natural Anodized Single Corner brackets
32 x Button Head Screws M5 (Single) (Length: 8mm)

80 x Button Head Screws M5 (Single) (Length: 10mm)
8 x M3 Washer
8 x M5x10mm Socket Head Cap Screw

6 x Rubber Bumper Foot (bumper only)
6 x Button Head Screws M5 (Single) (Length: 14mm)

MFM Frame

Bottom frame sides: 2 x 340mm 2040 / 364mm 2040)

  • Tapped M6 all holes
  • 340mm Hex key access holes 127mm – 20mm + 10mm = 117mm from end
  • 364mm Hex key access holes 139mm – 20mm + 10mm = 129mm from end

Vertical Sides: 2 x 440mm 2040

  • These are tapped on other kits, why= bottom plastic bracket?
  • Bottoms tapped both holes
  • Top milled sideways for M6 Cap Screw

Bottom Horizontals: 2 x 313mm 2040

  • Mill for M6 Screws x 2 each end

Top Horizontal: 1 x 313mm 2040

  • Threaded all holes M6 Screws

NO CORNER BRACKETS NEEDED RRIG = 6 Double, 4 single + nuts/screws not required

Milling for M6 end on joints:

  • Bolt Head is 10mm, Mill @ 10.5mm for bolt head, possibly 11 if tolerances shift too much
  • 6.35 (1/4″) mm through, with drill as short as possible, center punching manually for now to prevent walking annoying as it is

Milling for M5 joints

  • Bolt Head is 8.4mm, Mill @ 10mm
  • 5.5mm, no center punching but keeping drill bit as short as possible in collet

20180302 2nd build parts list:

  • 8 x M6x30mm Hex Cap Head screws
  • 4 x M6x20 Hex Button Head screws
  • 4 x M5x20 Hex Button Head screws + 4 x M5 T-Slot Block nuts
  • 4 x Rubber feet + 4 x M4x8 Hex Button Head screws + 4 x M4 T-Slot Block nuts

20180302 Revised with Flat plates for vertical bracing

  • 1 x 313 top cross member
    • threaded 4 x end bores M6 to 20mm
  • 2 x 305mm base top/bottom members
    • each milled x 4 to accept recessed M6 Cap head bolt for fixing to base side mebers
  • 2 x 364mm base side members
    • each with threaded 4 x end bores M6 to 20mm
    • each milled x 2 to accept recessed M5 Cap head bolt for fixing to verticals
  • 2 x 440mm verticals
    • each with 2 x hex key access holes at top
    • Vertical plates:
    • 2 x Flat brackets
    • 5 x M5 x Cap head Screws

Misc Hardware

  • Joint Cross Member to Verticals
    • 4 x M6x20mm Button Head
  • Base corners
    • 8 x M6x30mm Cap Head
  • Base side to Verticals
    • 2 x Flat Corner Alum Brackets
    • 4 x M5x25 Hex Cap Screw + 4 x (2 per bolt to get distance right) x  M5 DIN125 Washers + 4 x M5 2020 Block Nuts
    • 6 x M5x12 Hex Cap Screws + 6 x M5 DIN125 Washers + 6 x M5 2020 Block Nuts
  • Joint Cross Member to Verticals optional Alum brackets:
    • 2 x Flat Corner Alum Brackets
    • 10 x M5x12 Hex Cap Screws +10 x M5 DIN125 Washers + 10 x M5 2020 Block Nut
  • 4 x Feet + 4 x M4 x 10mm Button Head + 4 x M4 Hammer nuts

Frame assembly inserting captive T-Block nuts:

  • Base rear member:
    • Y Motor bracket: Insert T-Block nuts: 1 on top slot

Assembly (assumes frame is assembled first)

  • Y Rod Holders (x3), Y Rod Holder for Y Microswitch (x1) (Printed)
    • Tensioning screws
      • 4 x M3 Nuts
      • 4 x M3 x 10mm screws
    • Rod Holders to frame
      • 8 x M5 x 12mm Button Head Hex Screws + Washers (Button needed as Cap Head are too high and interfere with leveling screws
      • 8 x M5 Hammer Nuts
      • Note right rear is the Y Rod Holder for Microswitch
      • Leave loose for alignment later
    • Y End Stop Microswitch
      • 2 x small self tapping screws
  • Y Motor Bracket (Printed)
    • Bracket to frame
      • 1 x M5 T-Block Nut +
      • 2 x M5 Hammer nuts +
      • 3 x M5 x 12mm Cap Head Hex Screws +
      • 3 x M5 Washers +
      • Leave loose for alignment later
  • Y Motor to Bracket:
    • 4 x ANet M3x10mm screws
    • 4 x DIN9021 M3 Washers +
  • Belt Tensioner Block & Tensioner (Printed)
    • Block to frame (leave loose for alignment later)
      • 2 x M5 T-Block Nuts +
      • 2 x M5 x 12mm Cap Screws + Washers
      • Leave loose for alignment later
    • Tensioner into Block
      • 1 x M3 Nut
      • 1 x M3 x10mm screw
      • Insert M3 captive nut into Tensioner
      • Thread M3 x 10mm screw through into captive nut just enough to hold nut in place for now
      • Slide Tensioner into Block
    • Belt idler bearings into Tensioner
      • 1 x M3 x 30mm Screw + M3 Lock Nut
      • 2 x Flanged bearings
  • Z End Stop Bracket (Printed)
    • 2 x M5 x 10mm Button head Screws
    • 2 x M5 T-Block nuts
    • Fix microswitch using original self tapping screws
  • Z Motor Bracket (x2 Left, Right) (Printed)
    • Bracket to frame
      • 8 x M5 T-Block Nuts +
      • 8 x M5 x 10mm Cap Head Socket screws + Washers (Must be cap head for recessed screws
      • Position bracket so top of bracket is 25mm above top of the frame
  • Z Motors to Brackets (x2)
    • 4 x M3x10mm screws
    • 4 x DIN9021 M3 Washers +
  • Z Axis Top Brackets (x2, Left, Right) (Printed)
    • 2 x M5 x 10mm Cap Head Socket Screws (For recessed holes)
    • 6 x M5 x 12mm Cap Head Socket Screws
    • 8 x M5 T-Block Nuts
  • LCD Panel Case (Printed) to Brackets (2x, Left, Right) (Printed)
    • Assemble the LCD / Case / BracketsInsert 4 x captive M3 nuts into the 2 brackets
      • Sit the panel into the case
      • Attach the 2 x brackets to the case using M3 screws
    • Bolt the completed LCD Panel to the frame
      • 4 x M5 x 10 Button Head screws
      • 4 x M5 Swivel in nut
  • Control Board / Bracket
    • Control board bracket
      • 4 x M3 screws
      • 4 x M3 Spacers
      • 4 x M3 Nuts
    • Bracket to frame
      • 2 x M5 x 10mm Button head screws
      • 2 x M5 hammer nuts

Y Carriage

  • Carefully insert rods into rod holders
  • Word down 1 side, positioning the outside edge of the 8mm shaft 67.5mm in from the outside edge of the frame base

71+ 65 = 135 -> 135/2 = 67.5mm outside of 8mm shaft to outside edge of frame (for 313mm wide version

Other optional upgrades:

  • Replaced 4 x LM8UU on Y Axis (on heat bed) with Plastic bearings
  • Replaced 2 x LM8LUU on Z Axis with 4 x Plastic bearings
  • Turned Heatbed H-Plate upside down to get Y belt path flat
  • Heat bed to H-Plate mounts:
    • Drilled out M3 threads on H Plate
    • Added extra washers:
      • M3 Countersunk screw as provided through (in order):
        • Heat bed
        • M3 Nylon washer
        • M3 Washer
        • M4 9021 washer
        • M3 Washer
        • Spring
        • M4 9021 washer
        • H Plate
        • M3 DIN9021 Washer
        • M3 DX Beveled adjustment nut (Because I can’t remember if A8 kit came with Wing nuts or not)

Wanhao Duplicator 4 revisited 20161228

· silver

Had a bracket to print.

Printer to be connected to W7Server running Win 10 Home 64 bit

Installed Python 2.x 64 bit version

Installed Replicator 4 (Drivers failed so possibly did a reinstall)

Open STL file and after aligning to print bed generated GCode then saved as x7G to SDCard

======

Ran through bed alignment process on printer multiple times, not a great result so bed must be bent.

Note I some time ago installed some Aluminium bed support arms to try to increase the stiffness.

Tried to insert SDCard but it wouldn’t click nicely in place, possibly some crud int eh SDCard socket?

Unscrewed button/SDCard board, so I could get to the SDCard, and used force to get it in/out a few times, still sticky.

Started teh print, it went well. After removing the completed print, started the same file again as I needed 2 of these.

ARRRRRRG. The bed had gone out of calibration and the nozzle tore up the Kapton tape.

=======

Replaced the Kapton tape..

So now leveling the bed after every print, printed 4 x 200mm long flat parts and now no issues

Have ordered some PEI sheet to try next